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Refinishing with Country Chic Bees Wax Bar + All In One Paint

Clay Paint Refinish


Hello there! It’s me, Jessica, reporting from the breezy Oklahoma plains. I have been stacking my refinishing to-do-list with lots of items in my personal décor compilation. I’m ready for a new spread of decor in my daily environment and am hoping to achieve without buying new! In this quick tutorial [I know, they are all quick- you’re welcome!] I will cover the basic steps to refinishing wood [of any texture, age, etc] using Country Chic’s Bees Wax Bar and Country Chic’s All In One Clay Based Paint.

Clay Paint Project Frames

For this project I used:

Wooden Frames [with an existing dull finish]

Country Chic Bees Wax Bar

Country Chic All In One Paint [Lazy Linen + Cobblestone]

Country Chic Pebble Beach Paint

Synthetic Bristle Paint Brush


Paper towels

Clean Rag

Daddy Van’s Furniture Polish

Bees Wax Bar

To begin this super quick project, first remove photos and glass from the frames and give a quick wipe down to make sure all surfaces are free of dirt and dust. I used three varying oversized frames. The frames have different finishes, textures and existing distress. Two of these frames I had actually treated with a white wax a few months ago. This shows how well Country Chic Paint covers any surface. I did not paint a base coat on any of the frames; I wanted to highlight a bit of the existing colors with the wax bar and sanding. If you want to use a base paint color, you will prep your surface in the same manner, apply the base coat paint and then apply the wax between paint colors.

Bees Wax I picked a few traits on each frame that I wanted to shine through and rubbed the wax bar sparingly in that area. The wax bar acts as a barrier to the paint. The paint will completely dry, but it does not adhere to the surface below, allowing for easy sanding to expose the finish initially covered by the wax.

Bees Wax Distressing

The wax bar is easy to apply and goes a fairly long way. I applied the wax in concentrated areas, as I wanted to have greater paint coverage on the frames versus having a drastic chippy look. I waxed over knots, raw wood areas, and exposed layers of paint I wanted to see in the end result. In the photo above, wax has been applied on the lower right area of the corner- it’s fairly hard to see which is a good sign, as you don’t want a colored wax altering the application of your paint. The wax doesn’t need to cure or dry, so once it’s applied the piece is ready for painting.

Clay paint
Country Chic All In One Paint covers any surface like a dream [I’m always saying this about ALL of their products]. The waxed areas do not disturb the smoothness of the paint application [note- I applied the wax as evenly as possible]. For each frame I only needed one even paint layer. This paint dries pretty quickly; I wanted a hard dry so sanding would be smooth and allow the wax to do it’s job without sanding off rolls of drying paint- so I let the frames dry for about 2 hours. Two hours of dry time is still a mere eye-blink compared to many other paint lines that need to dry an entire day.


The next step in the process is sanding. Now, this paint sands very well. It’s like magic fairy dust coming off of your piece and creates the smoothest baby-bottom soft surface. With that in mind, make sure you sand outside because you will make quite the paint particle cloud indoors [it’s eco friendly]. I sanded until I was satisfied with the amount of existing finish that was exposed. Because I was sanding [if I had used a wet distress technique the finish would have been very different], the distress was much more subtle, and so easy to achieve with the use of the wax. Had I attempted this finish without using the wax bar, I would have needed a lot more elbow grease.

Lastly, I buffed an even coat of Daddy Van’s Furniture Polish to add a slight luster to the frames, without losing the effect of chalk paint. Daddy Van’s soaks right in, smells amazing, does not leave a colored residue and dries with a near matte finish. It’s the perfect finishing wax. Want to try some out? Email me and I can get you hooked up at a discounted price!

I am so pleased with the results and really like how the different wood styles compliment each other. By using some of Country Chic’s coordinating paint tones I was able to achieve a wonderful combination that can work well together on a gallery wall, or individually. This technique is very easy and can be used on any surface. Now, get to refinishing!


Happy painting,




Pumpkin Painting with the Kids

country chic pumpkins



It’s the time of year for pumpkin painting- woo hoo! If you’re looking for some simple and fun holiday decor what a great way to get the kids involved!

painted pumpkins

I love decorating with pumpkins, especially painted pumpkins. My almost-two-year-old-twins art is taking up prime wall space in my house, so I couldn’t skimp out on some kid pumpkin painting art. Country Chic Paint is a wonderful paint product for children to use. The eco friendly ingredient lists are kid friendly and if something splatters on their clothing it’s super easy to clean up with quick attention (dish soap + warm water + vinegar and you’re set!).


For this fun project I used:


Country Chic Paint in Licorice

Country Chic Metallic Accent Cream in Pocket Watch

Childrens paint brushes (or several Q-tips)

Disposable Plates quartered


pumpkin project


There are basically no steps for this tutorial. It’s a free for all! To keep things a bit controlled I had the children sit in their highchairs outside and spooned some paint onto quartered paper plates. I love children’s art because it is truly created by free spirits. Pumpkins are long lasting and can be a gorgeous addition to any holiday décor.


Enjoy some quality time with your children, your friends, or yourself!


Happy painting!






DIY Oversized Floor Mirror

Floor mirror DIY

A few years ago I created this floor mirror from a mirror scrap, plywood, a few extra pieces of wood and a paint-stain combo. I loved it when I first built it; I had further plans to add a few more details- so when I finally got around to it, I was ready for brand new look. This tutorial covers all the steps needed to create a DIY oversized floor mirror. There are several large pieces of wood needed for this project. If you do not know where to look for wood materials check my suggestions below the supply list.

DIY Oversized mirror

For this project I used:


1/2 inch plywood sheet (cut down to 85×26)

Mirror scrap (or oversized length mirror, 70×20)

1 inch x ¾ inch (or 1 inch) wood pieces (two 8 foot pieces and two 2 foot pieces)

Two styles of decorative wooden trim (small quantity needed- just the width of your board)

Mirror Adhesive

Adhesive/Caulking Gun

Country Chic Chalk Paint

Chop Saw


Synthetic bristled paintbrush

Metal or Wood embellishment (optional)

Nail gun or staple (air) gun + nails to fit (check the list of options here)

Nail hole filler

Foil or Plastic Wrap


Protective Gloves (optional)

Heavy, flat items (phone book, wooden board etc)


Where do I get plywood and how do I cut it down to size: You can purchase plywood at any wood supply hardware store and they can typically cut it down to size for you with little to no cost. If you have a friend with a table saw they can help you out!



Where do I get 1 inch boards: A large hardware and wood supply store should have “white wood” pieces in varying lengths and widths. Otherwise, I suggest buying an 8 foot pine board (1×12) and have the wood supply store cut it down to 1 inch strips. Or, if you have a friend with a table saw they can rip down any piece of wood to size.



Where do I get decorative wooden trim: I’ve found that arts and crafts stores have smaller heights of decorative trim. You can look here at the options Michael’s Arts and Crafts store supplies. The trim I purchased there is 36 inches long so it was a more economical purchase, as I did not need 7 feet. The other trim was purchased from a local hardware store, ask if they sell scrap pieces at smaller sizes- it’s worth your time to ask!

decorative trim


Measuring Mirror + Wood + Cut to Size

To begin, measure the size of your mirror and determine how much larger you want the wood “frame.” The mirror I used is 20 inches x 70 inches and the plywood measures 26 inches x 85 inches. Plywood sheets are 8 feet x 8 feet; the height of my board is 10 inches short of the entire board. I cut it down to just over 7 feet because I have really low ceilings in my house. If you need to get your mirror cut down to size a window supply store can easily assist. I believe it cost me around $8 to get the mirror cut to a preferred size.


Moving forward, let’s start on the frame that fits directly around the mirror and the trim at the top of the wooden board. I purchased rope-molding trim here from Michael’s Arts and Crafts and standard K pattern molding from a hardware store. Measure the length you wish the trim to be, mine is 26 inches (same width as the plywood board). Put those pieces aside, we will paint them shortly.


Grab your 1 inch wooden pieces. Before you measure for cutting, determine if you want a mitered edge (45 degree angles meeting to make a nice 90 degree corner) or a square corner (straight cuts where the wood meets). I cut my pieces for mitered edges. If you need help cutting a mitered edge follow the instructions found here.



Prepping + Painting

To begin, prep the plywood board for painting or stain. Although this project began as a distressed paint/stain combo I am going to provide steps for the current appearance.

Please note that plywood has layers (ply) and the sides do not look like a pretty solid piece of wood- the layers are visible. If you want to create a more robust looking mirror, covering the sides with a band (wood band can be purchased here) or wooden frame (use same size material that is used to “frame” the actual mirror) will make it sturdier and cover the raw edges.

A second note, if your mirror is not directly attached to a wall it may bow over time, to prevent bowing adding a frame around the edges will help. I did not band or frame out my plywood board.


Create an even surface by sanding rough patches and imperfections in your wood. There is usually an obvious front and back side to plywood, simply pick the side that has a better quality appearance as the front. Once sanded and clean, apply the first coat of paint with a synthetic bristled paintbrush or small paint roller. Country Chic Paint applies very well with a roller. I opted for a paint rush because I love how the strokes stand out after applying a natural wax topcoat. As always, paint with (in the same direction) the grain.


Plywood will likely soak up a lot of paint, if you need to apply a second coat I recommend lightly sanding between paint coats. This will smooth out brush strokes and allow the second coat to apply more evenly and dry quicker. I did not want an overly distressed mirror. If you would like to add distressing or additional product to your board, now is the time to do it.


Moving forward to painting the trim. I used the same color paint for the wooden frame on the outsides of the mirror and decorative trim at the top. I applied two paint coats and lightly sanded between each layer. Quick Tip: grab foil or plastic wrap and cover the bristles of the paintbrush so the paint does not dry. You can keep your brush and paint wet and ready to use between coats. I only recommend doing this if the window between paint layers is short- an hour or so max.


paint brush tip

Attaching the Mirror

Once the board is dry, lay your mirror down (use protective gloves here if necessary) on top of the wood to determine the preferred placement. I suggest placing your mirror at least 3 inches from the bottom. Framing the bottom of the mirror with 1inch wood will leave 2 inches of space between the bottom of the wooden board and the bottom of the mirror frame. Play around with it and see what looks best to your eye. With a pencil make a few small marks around the mirror. Remove the mirror (sorry, easier said than done- those mirrors are heavy, have sharp edges and are so fragile—be careful!). Apply mirror adhesive within your marked areas. You will likely need to use a caulking gun. Apply in a somewhat even fashion with decent coverage. Don’t get too close to the edges, as the adhesive will expand and squish out from the mirror’s pressure. Place the mirror back in the marked spot. If the first placement is not perfect, you have some time to adjust.. Place a few heavy items on top of the mirror if you’d like, allow the adhesive to dry overnight (the adhesive I suggested states it dries completely within 24 hours).



Assembling Frame + Decorative Trim

Now that the mirror glue is dry, grab your air tool. Wondering how to use a nail gun? Click here. Place one piece of trim around your frame and slowly nail in place, firmly holding the trim against the mirror. Focus on the area you are nailing at the moment. Wood warps and turns, if your board is not straight it’s okay you. The nails will keep the wood in place exactly as you wish it to be. Once the frame is attached, place the decorative wooden pieces at the top of your mirror and attach with the nail gun. Once everything is attached, grab your nail filler. Take a small amount of putty between your thumb and middle finger; roll it into a small short snake shape. Insert the tip of the thin roll into the hole, and swipe with your pointer finger. Run the putty snake ball back over the hole to remove any excess putty. Continue this step until all holes are filled. It is likely you will need to paint over the putty holes; you can lightly sand the dried putty before and/or after painting. Make sure the putty is dry before sanding. It will make a mess of your pristine paint job if it’s not dry and sanded on.

 chalkpaint distressing

Finishing Up

To finish up, I did a small amount of distressing on the trim areas. I wanted a fairly clean look, but I didn’t want it to look perfect. By exposing a small amount of wood I think this adds a slight aged finish. Technically your mirror is ready to hang or stand. If you want to finish your piece off with a wax polish, I love Daddy Van’s Furniture Polish. It smells so amazing and is, of course, eco friendly. Want to buy some? Send me an email!


Happy painting and building!









Quick Chalkboard Project using Mud Paint

mud paint chalkboard


Country Chic Paint has a new formula that applies, sands and distresses like a dream- oh and you can write on it with chalk! This mud paint is clay based, Country Chic’s All in One Paint is going to change the world for furniture and wood project painting. I am a loyal Country Chic Paint user and only use their products for all of my refurbishing and painting project needs.

country chic paint aurora

In this tutorial I will provide the simple steps to create your own chalkboard using one paint product, a paintbrush and sandpaper.


For this project I used:

Country Chic All in One Paint Limited Edition Color Aurora


Wooden Banner board

Synthetic Bristled paint brush

banner board

To begin, sand down the piece of wood you selected to use for you chalkboard. Make certain the sanding creates a smooth surface; wipe off any dust once complete. Dip the paintbrush into the paint about a third of the way. Apply the paint (with the grain) in a steady manner ensuring the application is smooth and equal. Work in small concentrated areas and try to avoid a lot of contact with drying paint. I painted the piece in quadrants and found that was productive for easy application and avoidance of disrupting drying paint. Country Chic’s All in One Paint dries very fast. Mud paint is thicker and will apply in a heavier coat.

country chic paint aurora wet

You will want to work in an area with little wind or air circulation while painting. Apply one even coat and allow it to dry. One coat of All in One Paint creates wonderful coverage. Once the paint is dry (10-30 minutes) evenly sand the first coat. You will notice this changes the color appearance, especially deep colors like Aurora.

country chic paint aurora sanded

I left all sides raw and sanded the painted edges thoroughly between paint coats. Apply a second coat in the same manner as the first. After the paint is dry, sand down only the sides of the board to remove excess paint if you do not want painted sides. Applying a second coat, left un-sanded, creates the deep gorgeous color you see in the paint can. If you want a sanded look to your chalkboard you may sand, however be weary that over-sanding creates a smooth surface that chalk will not adhere to. If you do over sand, simply apply an additional layer of paint. Note, applying any sealing product will likely not allow chalk to adhere, the paint needs to be left raw.


country chic gallery wall



Write your favorite phrase and voila! You’re officially a chalkboard maker. Happy painting!




30 Minute Weathered Wood Finish using Country Chic Paint

pinterest photog

This tutorial gives step by step instructions on creating a weathered wood look with a brush and two paint products on stained scrap wood. For this project I used:


Country Chic Paint Graphite Furniture Glaze

Country Chic Lazy Linen Paint All in One Paint (soon to be released)

Scrap wood pre-stained (Grey)

Synthetic Bristle Paint Brush

Damp paper towel


For this sort of finish I recommend using the same color family for all of your finish products. The scrap pine wood was stained a weathered grey; Lazy Linen and Graphic are the perfect complementary colors to the base color.

My first step was to take a dry paintbrush and lightly dip it into the paint. I used paint from the lid because the amount I needed was very minimal. As you can see in the photo below, there’s hardly any paint on the brush.


Apply the paint in the same direction as the grain, lightly and sporadically. I had no rhyme to the placement of my paint strokes. I dipped my brush back in the paint a total of 3 times and was able to really work the paint over the surface as I wished, in the same breathe I was covering a small surface area.

FullSizeRender_4You must work quick with chalk finished paint because it dries very quickly! Pine wood is fairly soft and soaks in paint well.


After letting the paint dry for a few minutes I applied dots of glaze with my pointer finger. I placed several swipes of glaze all over the piece and began working them in with my finger and a damp paper towel.

FullSizeRender_8 If you are working in a breezy area your glaze will leave a light dried ring around each blob if you don’t move quick. So, you may want to start with one glaze swipe at a time.

Over rubbing with the damp paper towel will create a wet distressed look (removed painting with the cloth), which looks great for the weathered wood look but it will remove some of your paint coat. If this happens, it’s very easy to repeat the paint application and glaze application again.


Now your weathered wood piece is ready for lettering, hooks or sanding for added distressing! Happy painting!